Riding Waves For Their Full Functional Length
A surfing trait that developing surfer should consider is whether they ride their waves for their full functional length. That is, riding a wave so that the full manoeuvre potential of a wave is achieved. This may be just performing a re-entry finish on a closeout wave for example, or 3-4 manoeuvres on a quality down-the-line wave.
What many surfers display is a hesitancy to fully complete a ride if it doesn’t match their expectation of what the wave offers them, or they kick-out because of frequent past errors when faced with a particular section of a wave or finishing manoeuvre. Often it’s out of frustration or a fear of failure that causes these early kick-outs.
For example, a surfer will kickout early if they enter a flat section on a wave after performing a number of manoeuvres, frustrated by what the wave presents to them. In these situations, surfers could often surf through these flat sections to finish the wave in the shore break. Or, because of regular errors when finishing, surfers will simply not try to finish their waves because of their learned experience that says – “Don’t even try to finish, you won’t make it”
These two examples highlight negative situations [and there are others] that if performed often enough act as barriers to improved performance.
Instead of kicking-out early, the flat section kick-out surfer could challenge themselves to surf rail-to-rail through the flat section, so that they hit the final manoeuvre with speed and power. While the finishing kickout surfer could learn the different finishing techniques required to finish in any and all surfing situations.
Riding waves for their full functional length teaches surfers to push through surfing situations that aren’t necessary enjoyable, so they learn the valuable surfing traits of perseverance and “going for it”, thus breaking performance barriers in the process.